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 Rail Scale Miniatures "Whispering Falls" arrives

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
Ensign Posted - 01/22/2019 : 5:24:12 PM
Hi everyone, well look what I picked up today in the mail!
Rail Scale Miniatures "Whispering Falls" has finally arrived!
This kit has so much stuff in it that RSM owner Dario Le Donne had to use 2 boxes to accommodate all of the materials needed to build this kit.
Here are the boxes that this kit comes in.

Here is the information packed instruction manual and the "Micro Scale" Floquil colour chart- cross reference chart that come with this kit.

A look inside of the kit's manual shows how Dario at RSM walks you through each step.
Providing good photos of what you are working on and how it should look.

First I dug into the larger box to see this kits contents.
I could not fit everything into one shot so I took a few.
This kit has a lot of wood in it, for that board on board construction of the barn.

The kit's castings, CD with colour images showing this kit from different perspectives.
Different styles of roofing materials used throughout this kit, and other detailing components.

To be continued...
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Pennman Posted - 05/23/2019 : 10:33:33 AM

Great tutorial onward! I like the way you omitted cutting all of the window openings to achieve lighting in special areas, just like in a real house if only some rooms were occupied.

When I build using hydrocal, I like to add interior bracing in the form of thin chipboard glued to the interior walls to add strength to them. In handing the four-sided glued together structure, it helps to keep the walls intact and forestall breakage, if dropped. Also, you don't have to paint the interior walls, as it is already a brown color.

Ensign Posted - 05/23/2019 : 09:43:26 AM
Thanks! Wes, Mike, Bill, Bob & Jerry, for your posts and comments.

Wes, I'm glad you are enjoying my explanations!

Mike, I totally agree with you.

Bill, I would have done what you have suggested, however after I posted my steps taken so far last night, I then spray painted the hydrocal walls with white acrylic paint to help seal them.

Bob, it's always great to get a thumbs up from you my friend!

Jerry, I'm glad that you think so, I've never worked on a flagstone covered building before.
Must be beginners luck!

TRAINS1941 Posted - 05/23/2019 : 09:25:20 AM
Greg great work on doing the mortar lines.
They came out perfect!
sgtbob Posted - 05/23/2019 : 08:21:35 AM
Greg, Your usual outstanding job and description.

Bill Gill Posted - 05/23/2019 : 08:02:09 AM
Greg, you did a really good job assembling the walls even though you obviously cut some corners doing it. :)
One observation: The seams between the stones are all the same width.That gives the walls a "jigsaw puzzle" appearance with nice, tight, even seams. Kind of unusual for a rough stone building.
If you Google images of stone houses you'll see that the mortar joints aren't that regular. Maybe you could slightly tweak the widths of some seams with your push pin, especially (but not exclusively) at the corners of some stones so they don't all align so nicely. Small tweaks will add a lot to the overall appearance when a whole wall is viewed.
Michael Hohn Posted - 05/23/2019 : 07:38:16 AM
Kits look so much better when the corners get this kind of attention. Great job!

wesleybeks Posted - 05/23/2019 : 07:18:55 AM
More flawless work Greg.

Your posts and descriptions of the techniques are better than any manual. Love it.
Ensign Posted - 05/22/2019 : 9:56:42 PM
Hi everyone, the hydrocal farmhouse is the next building I'll be working on here.
The masters & the molds for this farmhouse were created by Ed Fulasz, specifically for this kit.
This farmhouse without the front porch or summer kitchen added, footprint measures out to 5 3/8" x 3 1/2" inches.
These hydrocal castings are made to look like the house is covered with large pieces of "flagstone"

Here are the 4 wall castings that will make up the main structure.

The instructions tell us to begin by identifying and marking each wall with a letter.
Also by adding pencil marks to the outside edges of each wall 1/8" in from the edge.
I used a piece of 1/8" wood bracing to assist me with this task.

The instructions also suggest another pencil mark on the outside edge of each casting.
So that they will end up looking like mine shown below.

These pencil marks along the edges will be used as a guide for sanding the backs of these wall castings smooth.
The instructions suggest using a small block of wood wrapped in sandpaper.
I just used my flat glass surface on my workbench to lay a piece of sandpaper on, and sanded my casting edges that way.
You want to sand the edges smooth until your pencil marks just disappear.

I wanted to light the interior of my farmhouse so I also carefully cut out some of the window openings.
The ones that I didn't cut out will appear not to have any lights on in those rooms.

I was now ready to begin gluing the walls together, using 5 minute epoxy.
You want to keep the epoxy towards the back of these joints.
You do not want epoxy squirting out from the joint on the front side that will be seen.
So use just enough to give you a good joint, not a messy one.
The instructions tell us to start with walls " and "A" and "B" front and sidewall.
Then "C" and "D" walls making certain that they are square and that they are straight upright, I used my squares to assist me with this.

When the 5 minute epoxy had set up I then glued the 2 halves together.
Making certain that they were square to each other and also straight.

Now that we have the 4 walls together, it's time to hide the corner joints a little bit better.
We do this using some drywall compound.
Just a little applied to cover up each separation line that you can still see on the corners.

Once the drywall compound has dried you carefully sand the joint smooth (I used 150 grit sandpaper)
The corner on the left in the photo below shows the sanded smooth corner, and the one on the right side shows the un-sanded corner joint.

After sanding all the corners as smooth & flat as I could, I used a pencil to draw back the mortar joints that were now missing.
Using both the front and sidewall mortar joints as a guide to help me draw them back so that they connected with the others.

I then used a push pin to carve my mortar lines back into the hydrocal walls.
Gently scoring the lines deeper and wider as I traced over my pencil marks.

This is how my 4 corners came out looking after I finished.

That's it for now, next time I'll show you how I go about colouring these farmhouse walls.

Ensign Posted - 05/21/2019 : 5:48:34 PM
Kevin, I started working on the farmhouse today!
I'll have something to show you soon.

Jerry, with this farmhouse, make that 3 houses that I'm now working on!
The fun never ends around here!

TRAINS1941 Posted - 05/21/2019 : 2:14:29 PM
Two houses to take care no wonder you can't get anything done!!
kebmo Posted - 05/21/2019 : 2:00:10 PM
i'm glad you're back from the cottage. now onto the house!
Ensign Posted - 05/20/2019 : 11:13:54 PM
Thanks for the great comments guys!
Just got back from our cottage up north.

Rich, I'm glad that you enjoyed that photo, that was inspired by your childhood memories of your fun on your parents farm.
I think that figure will end up eventually swinging on a tire under a tree somewhere on the farm.

JeffB Posted - 05/18/2019 : 3:18:28 PM
Summertime...and the livin' is easy.

Looking good, Greg! I'm taking notes for my build.

Pennman Posted - 05/17/2019 : 11:13:28 PM
Originally posted by Ensign

Thanks very much! Russ, Pete, Rich, Jerry & Dave, for your very kind words about my work on this barn.

Rich, I took this next photo with you in mind.


Thanks Greg, that's an awesome detail! Ah the fond memories of my youth... Are you leaving it there? You did this on my suggestion? How nice!

Mike - No worries whatsoever here...

halrey Posted - 05/17/2019 : 7:15:17 PM

Outstanding as usual!
Nicely done.


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