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T O P I C    R E V I E W
Nelson458 Posted - 08/20/2017 : 3:01:26 PM
I have only recently, after some 5 or 6 years, started building a small layout. Although I am not much into operations, I do enjoy a little switching, and have found Peco insulfrog turnouts just the ticket for me, easy to throw the points, very little wiring. In fact, I might have gotten a little carried away with their turnouts . My 5' by 10' layout, is more destined to be a large diorama than an operating layout. And that was my intention.

Soooo, that being said, I have always wanted a small facility for the engines, nothing big, an engine shed (rather than a roundhouse) and machine shop, coaling station and a source of water. Ever since I built Sierra West's engine house, I thought that might be just the thing for this layout. Since that shed is HOn3, it won't do well here, besides, I have plans for that later.

So I set about planning the actual size of the shed. I already knew from the beginning what I wanted, and where, I just hadn't gotten the track set up and everything 'sized' so it would fit. It will be about 13.5" deep, contain 3 tracks, and one off to the side. I'm building it on 3/16" ply, it is pretty flat now, but after I glue stuff down that might change, so I am going to re-enforce the bottom with some sturdy hardwood. The layout sits on 2" foam, so I would need to cut into that for the added strips underneath.

The engine shed will be built very similarly to the Sierra West model, board by board on a framework of 6x6 stripwood. Or maybe 4x6. The roof will be peaked in the center, and the right hand stall will be set back 4.5" which will be used for small engines.

So far, I made a simple cardboard moch-up to see how it fits. I am glad I did, as the two r/h tracks didn't line up like I wanted. I had a short l/h turnout leading into those stalls and open area, and replaced it with a medium length 'Y' turnout. That proved to be much better. Sometimes a simple change is all that is needed.

So here are a couple of pictures, a birds-eye view and a sketch of the front of the shed. I hope to start on the project soon, but with an upcoming trip to Colorado for the show, not sure how far I will get before the next weekend.




15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Nelson458 Posted - 10/16/2019 : 11:20:40 AM
quote:
Originally posted by bandman

Yours look more prototypical than the casting. Super job!

Horton M.



Thank you Horton.
Nelson458 Posted - 10/16/2019 : 11:19:59 AM
quote:
Originally posted by George D

Great idea for brooms, Tony. Now your LP have something to fly on Halloween.

George



I may have to do something like that.
Nelson458 Posted - 10/16/2019 : 11:19:21 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Carl B

The benches and brooms look good Tony.

Hmmm... "benches and brooms" .....sounds like the name of a restaurant.



It sure does, doesn't it . Thank you
bandman Posted - 10/15/2019 : 1:05:28 PM
Yours look more prototypical than the casting. Super job!

Horton M.
George D Posted - 10/15/2019 : 12:57:00 PM
Great idea for brooms, Tony. Now your LP have something to fly on Halloween.

George
Carl B Posted - 10/15/2019 : 12:50:17 PM
The benches and brooms look good Tony.

Hmmm... "benches and brooms" .....sounds like the name of a restaurant.
Nelson458 Posted - 10/15/2019 : 12:12:10 PM
To Mike, Horton and Bob, thank you. I appreciate your comments.

Over the weekend, I came up with a plan for making HO scale brooms, something of which I have been wanting to do for quite a while. I have a metal casting from SSLtd. in the left of the photo here, as a comparison.

The broom bristles are made from Woodland Scenics grass, the long 2" thin hair type stuff. I laid out a piece of stripwood with glue (canopy) on one side, and spread out a good portion of the 'grass' over the stripwood, then laid a layer of glue over the 'grass' and then topped that with another piece of stripwood, laid a weight on it overnight, and trimmed to size in the morning to make 2 brooms. Later, I did a smaller section for another broom, mainly to see it I really needed to leave it for an overnight drying. Yep, it did, but I managed to let it dry long enough to make another, but it is better to wait (the one on the right was made in a hurry, and you can tell. I don't like it quite as much). I had a small piece of offcut left over, and thought it would make a nice brush for the bench. Turned out rather well, I think. I used styrene (.015") for the handles. One note, make the assembly on glass (I have 1/4" plate) as it is super easy to use a razor blade to pry it loose.


railman28 Posted - 10/14/2019 : 8:09:01 PM
Nice workbench. Nice detailing.

Bob
bandman Posted - 10/14/2019 : 3:26:15 PM
Such precision in your work, Tony. I enjoy seeing your creations.

Horton M.
Michael Hohn Posted - 10/14/2019 : 11:15:24 AM
Yes indeed, very well done, Tony. When it comes to building HO shelves and work benches you’re the man.

Mike
Nelson458 Posted - 10/13/2019 : 8:57:09 PM
quote:
Originally posted by time2play


Nicely done Tony. And informative...

Bob



Thanks Bob
time2play Posted - 10/13/2019 : 6:53:22 PM

Nicely done Tony. And informative...

Bob
Nelson458 Posted - 10/13/2019 : 2:57:23 PM
Bench legs

Many of you have detailed bench castings from the likes of Rusty Rails and others, and putting on a set of legs can be a little troubling and awkward. It has been for me too, and today I want to show a couple of ideas I came up with, and please, share any you may have, I can always learn something.



The first produces a heavy looking bench, great for just putting one on, or not wanting to add too much detail beneath, although you could if you used a little savvy and used smaller ‘timber’ or spaced things apart more.



In either case, I pre-cut my strip wood, pre-stained, and pretty much ready to go. Some pieces should be left long (side bracing) to be trimmed later, or to keep the bottom rail even on both sets (back and front) of legs. You’ll see a little way down the road here.





First, I laid out some styrene, .060” in the back and .015 in the front. Just needs to be thinner in the front than the leg posts. The distance apart is your choice, in this case, I used 4 leg sections as the height, so I spaced then in 3 places along the opening to get it all even.





Lay down 2 sections of the top and bottom rails





With 2 small square blocks or steel that you might have, and glue on the end legs. I used Canopy glue, which dries fairly quickly.





Then the center leg, unless you have a short table. Then the ends will do fine.





Do both front and back leg sections, and when dry, glue them to the casting as shown. As it happens, there is already a .04” step on the castings just for this purpose, which is very handy indeed. Hold until dry, using Canopy glue, which sticks to resin nicely, making sure it is square.





Do the same for the opposite side





Now you can add some slightly long side supports and trim when dry.







Now, if you wish, you can add some boards below the top. I took some 2-by strip wood, wider than .04”, wide enough to overhang the support, or to lay flush with, and with a sharp razor blade, cut openings where the legs go. I think you can see where this is going from here. I made one for each side. Then glue in place. With the remaining gap between the two, just cut another piece to fit. If you make them a little long, you can cut them to size after the glue dries. Being a short opening, I intend to add some pipe under here.













NOW, for the second lighter look, with another casting, something I didn’t do on the first, is take a file to clean off the area of paint and to make sure there are no obstructions. In this castings case, there was a piece of resin that was bridging the gap to the open drawer, plus a small bubble of casting in the opening too.




I also changed tactics and glued the side leg support onto the ends of the casings. I made them the same width as the casting width, making sure the ends were square. I then measured the overall length for the leg supports, in this case, 1.556”.







I take off .01” for the thickness of 2 legs, for about 1.455”. I have two miter boxes, one shown here from Micro Mark, which is extra-long for pieces like what I am about to cut, and one from UMM at https://www.umm-usa.com/, item MN034. They now have some additional saw boxes like the MN060, a nice set of 3. You will also need their saw, JLC002 or the boxed one (as I have) JLC004, a great buy at only $18.95. I have several extra blades, but to be honest, I have used the one I had in it when I bought it, and it’s still sharp, even after cutting numerous amounts of brass, wood and styrene. The Micro mark uses a different screw, most likely metric, but seems too soft and may strip out one day (at the Phillip's head end), and I wrote to them to find out the size of thread, to no avail, but the UMM one is very good.



Now, back to modeling, the calipers shown in here to set the length gives me a cut to within .005” of the length I need. A simple sanding with the NWSL sander will bring it to size.





Now you only need one strip of styrene to hold the top section, cut from 4x4 strip wood, to glue the legs on to the ends.







Now you need to cut one more leg for the center. I used the UMM miter saw here and a small section of the same wood to act as a spacer from when I originally cut the legs. Glue this in the center of the sections, keeping it square.







Cut a long section of material, I used 1x3 here, for the shelf support, and glue it all the way across, keeping it level. This helps keep it level for putting in the boards. Then cut off the extras.







This is how I cut the slots on the shelves below. Lining up the top of the bottom rail to one side. Then I cut using the legs for cutting guides. I will be using this piece, so it is a 1x12 piece of strip wood. You will notice how square I have the legs, they stand up on their own.








Here I have glued in the two leg sections, with shelves attached. I will add the side sections at this point, using the shelving to align them correctly. (with the whole thing upside down here, gave me an idea on a wagon I might build, with drawers on the sides. What do you think???)









Nelson458 Posted - 10/05/2019 : 10:50:15 AM
quote:
Originally posted by hon3_rr

Continued great work Nelson!



Thank you Kris.
hon3_rr Posted - 10/04/2019 : 12:56:12 PM
Continued great work Nelson!

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