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T O P I C    R E V I E W
jbvb Posted - 01/31/2008 : 8:10:46 PM
I'm modeling the Boston & Maine's Eastern Route in HO standard gauge in my 207-year-old house's attic. The attic has its pluses and minuses - plenty of space, just up the stairs and finished, but the combination of the sloping ceiling and a 36" minimum radius meant I could only do an around-the-walls plan. Also, it can get a bit hot in the summer and cold in the winter.

The layout incorporates my Rowley MA modules, presently the only finished scenery, in the rural northern half of the attic. The southeast corner is where I'm building my compressed version of West Lynn, MA including the General Electric River works and the West Lynn creamery.



This photo shows the mainline curve passing the future creamery (spur under the file) and the Saugus Branch (long staging tracks) coming in from the left. I'm spiking rail on the branch, building the switch comes next. The flying plywood is actually pretty rigid with the flange below and the backdrop partially installed, it will get better when I bring the backdrop around to the left edge of the photo.
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Orionvp17 Posted - 11/16/2019 : 8:58:35 PM
Like! You gonna add a swing set, too? Or is that the sort of place that has a rose arbor and a flower garden along the back fence?

Pete
in Michigan

jbvb Posted - 11/16/2019 : 8:54:29 PM
Thanks, Pete and Mike. Since I was starting with copper, I thought to make real verdigris. I scraped the self-stick strip to get through any coating. Then, remembering my chemistry, I thought of copper sulfate and tried dilute sulfuric acid. No joy. Then I actually looked up verdigris and now I'm trying vinegar (acetic acid). Meanwhile, I worked on the property fences:



The back fence is Tichy's, the front is the old standby Atlas picket fence. Both need a lot of weathering. Then I'll dismount them and apply a lawn etc.
Michael Hohn Posted - 11/13/2019 : 4:47:43 PM
The chimney story is certainly credible with the obviously modern top and the urban setting.

Nice job on the slate roof. I love these early buildings.

Mike
Orionvp17 Posted - 11/13/2019 : 12:07:52 PM
Like!

Please let us know how the flashing issues work out. Copper sounds wonderful, but will go either green or, more likely, dark grey very quickly in that environment.

As to the mason's chimney advice, he's a professional. I'd take the advice!

Pete
in Michigan
jbvb Posted - 11/13/2019 : 11:32:18 AM
Some more work on the Ritchie - Gilbert house:



I decided to keep the tall chimney; old New England houses I'm familiar with all had simple chimney tops. This style of cap seems to represent later rebuilds. So I'll explain it as "In the '20s, the chimney was showing its age, and had to be rebuilt above the attic floor. The Colonial Dames' kitchen reenactments had been troubled by downdrafts and the mason recommended raising it and adding a capstone."

It still needs roof flashing, the door, more weathering and finally glazing. But I'm undecided about the ridge & flashing. BEST provides adhesive copper foil, but in a coal fired city next to a railroad yard, it wouldn't have stayed 'fresh copper' for even a couple of weeks. I'll see if I can get the protective coating off.



Here it and its back fence are visible behind evening traffic on Franklin St.
jbvb Posted - 11/07/2019 : 5:38:09 PM
Earlier this year there were a few write-ups about a new lighting/interior product line called 'Roomettes'. I've tried one 'pictures from the internet' interior, but will need many more for night-time operations. So I signed up for a Roomettes make-n-take clinic at the NER Syracuse convention.

I chose the interior for the City Classics 'Crafton Ave. Gas Station', which I'd started a few years ago. The kit came with a printed cardboard 'office' interior. Roomettes provided both 'office' and 'garage bay' interiors, plus 3D fold-up counters, tool boxes etc. The clinician/founder also provided Gem-Tac glue, a quick-setting tacky PVA product. Mine went together pretty well at the clinic.

Because I'd already built my building, I had to trim the interiors a bit to get them through the floor opening. Wiring them was a bit harder. The provided LED-on-a-tiny-board is compatible with Woodland Scenics 'Just Plug' system, which uses 12 VDC and JST 2.5 mm connectors. I got some 'male' connectors on-line (Just Plug lights have 'female' connectors with metal sockets inside a plastic housing that looks kind of 'male) and connected them up:



This blurred shot (sorry) is with my 'walk around' LED strip lighting on. The Roomettes lights are too bright for me at 12V. I haven't decided whether to buy one of the W-S dimming hubs, or just add a resistor to the circuit.
jbvb Posted - 11/05/2019 : 11:02:51 PM
Thanks, Mike & Pete. BEST doesn't provide a prototype photo of the 'Little House' part of this 'Big House, Little House' kit (I'm building the Little House separately). The chimney might have been tall to get smoke above the Big House's windows. Or it might have been so the 4-6 flues in it would draw well. If I don't like it this way, I can shorten it or punch it through the roof. But maybe it got extended when Batterman Press built across the street and the DAR ladies started getting downdrafts when the wind was east (as it often is in Bexley).
Orionvp17 Posted - 11/05/2019 : 10:28:55 PM
James,

I think the 6/6 is a good choice and yes, the chimney looks tall. Looking forward to more of this!

Pete
in Michigan
Michael Hohn Posted - 11/05/2019 : 10:14:38 PM
I like the looks of the house you’re doing. Nice proportions, although the chimney seems rather too tall.

Very New Englandy.

Mike
jbvb Posted - 11/05/2019 : 8:09:15 PM
1/16" square bracing is adequate so far on this particular structure. But all 4 walls and the roof are 2 laminated layers. At any rate, it stood up to me shaving the new window openings with a #11 blade to fit the windows I came up with from the stash.



BEST's instructions show all the big windows as 4-over-4, but somehow I wound up with two 6-over-6s, much more appropriate for a surviving structure of this age (pre-1750).



Micro Engineering 28x50" windows are very close to the kit's middle-sized windows, and let me model one open a crack.



The Ritchie-Gilbert house doesn't match its neighborhood, This is intentional and of course there is a story, which I'll tell when house & diorama are finished.
Orionvp17 Posted - 10/17/2019 : 8:58:46 PM
Looking good, James. Would love to know how the 1/16" bracing works out. I've always used 1/8" square, "just because."

Pete
in Michigan
jbvb Posted - 10/17/2019 : 8:53:20 PM
Thanks, Mike & Pete. Today was pretty wet, but with the wood stove going I dried off quickly.

The house is a little farther along. BEST recommended pre-painting the parts, but I have better luck gluing bare wood surfaces.



I've also added 1/16" square reinforcement in the corners. The stock roof is about 3/16" too short with the new end wall. I haven't decided to extend the stock parts or make new. After Seashore track work tomorrow, glue will be dry and I'll revisit.
Tyson Rayles Posted - 10/17/2019 : 06:05:22 AM
Good looking scene!
Orionvp17 Posted - 10/16/2019 : 10:08:18 PM
Looks like a fun project, James! Please keep the pix coming!

Stay dry, too!

Pete
in Michigan
jbvb Posted - 10/16/2019 : 10:00:44 PM
Room lights would dodge the headlight issue, but then the sloping ceiling looms over the scene.

I'm back to working on a couple of projects on Franklin St. The big acrylic carcass that will become Batterman Press now has its first laminated styrene 'concrete' beam. Happily, the acrylic cement didn't affect the well-dried Floquil. But it won't be photogenic till I work out how to do the masonry windows.



There's also what I plan to call the Ritchie-Gilbert House, which goes behind the Coco Club. I'm using the 'extension' part of the BEST kit here; the main house will go elsewhere. The clamps are on the end wall I fabricated to match the kit's.

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