|T O P I C R E V I E W
||Posted - 01/03/2015 : 4:17:16 PM
This is a HO scale scratch build of the New York Mill located in Blackhawk, Colorado. The model will be built using plans from Michael Blazek. ( http://blazeksplan.com ) This build will focus on the use of balsa foam as a building material in HO scale.
For those interested, a few pictures (which one can zoom in for better views) and site plan of the mill can be viewed here:
|15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
||Posted - 12/13/2017 : 2:44:22 PM
Added to 'References' on page 1, Steam piping scratch built under Mill Details the following link:
||Posted - 10/03/2017 : 2:49:12 PM
As I didn't have any 7x9x16 pine ties available (Kappler KP00SS16-HO ties http://kapplerusa.com/y2k/p-ho-ties.htm ) I used HO 8x8 strips cut to length for my ties.
||Posted - 10/03/2017 : 1:48:03 PM
Not a lot of pictures to post now, but I'm redoing the construction of the bridge stringers and tie deck. I didn't follow the construction instructions and attached the ties to both the inside and outside stringers thinking that I could modify the construction later. Isn't going to work, thus the redo. I will use the existing deck at a later time for a open deck bridge.
For the replacement bridge, I'm using the same weathering and coloring techniques described earlier.
I also updated the reference section at the beginning of the thread with a bridge reference which may be of value to some modelers in all scales. http://kettlevalleymodelrailway.blogspot.com/2016/01/bridge-details.html
Also, NMRA members need to reference the bridge construction specification sheet on the NMRA site. Lots of good info.
||Posted - 06/09/2017 : 8:41:08 PM
Kris thanks for the update.
Thought maybe you fell down the mine shaft!!
||Posted - 06/09/2017 : 11:33:07 AM
Thanks all for the best wishes. I'm just going to say that I still don't have a kitchen or laundry room floors, and that Murphy has now overstayed the visit.
Since this thread got bumped, I'll bring folks up to speed on my modeling.
-- I'm in the process of trying to make some innovative techniques for the simulation/coloring of rust and stain weathering streaking effects, primarily for application to plastic/styrene model projects. The military modeling weathering products tend to be enamel with acrylic washes applied over the enamel base. They also tend to use Mineral Spirits/Turpentine or a diluted acrylic binder to fix dry pigments. I'm trying to make modifications to the techniques which will provide easier/quicker application and stand up to the model handling present in our hobby.
-- I've been using a acrylic wash fixer and dry pigments/pastel powders for coloring of styrene and diorama ground color.
-- In an effort to bring increased metal coloring and metal effects on styrene, I've been playing with encaustic mediums. The military modeling tribe have used this methodology for metal simulations for some time, and there are weathering products available. I'm trying to figure out how to adopt the medium for use on models which get handled, like rolling stock.
--I've presented two clinics to area NMRA divisions and I'm modifying the Balsa Foam carving and coloring clinics for presentation at the Narrow Gauge convention in Denver. I'm on tap for four clinic sessions, so I'm trying to make the hands-on clinics work for groups of 20 folks.
-- I also need to create a 49 square inch piece of scenery to cover a hole in one of the end loops for the slim-rails modules for display at the Narrow Gauge convention. Still in the planning stages...
-- Been doing a bit of ad hoc modeling on the mill and bridge, but I have to increase the focus in these projects. Again, I'm documenting in the background but need to present in this thread. The presentation takes more time than the actual modeling.
Anyway, I'm really hoping to have a few more New techniques to share soon.
||Posted - 06/09/2017 : 01:35:19 AM
Sorry to hear about the dishwasher disaster. I hope things get back to normal quickly.
||Posted - 05/07/2017 : 1:00:58 PM
Kris, sorry to read about your mishap with your dishwasher.
On the upside, your bridge and colouring of it looks excellent.
As always keep up the great work that you do!
||Posted - 05/07/2017 : 12:32:13 PM
Kris sorry to hear of the flood.
Hope you get things back to normal quickly.
The updates look fantastic as usual.
||Posted - 05/07/2017 : 11:45:35 AM
My condolences for your flood. I hate when reality interferes with fantasy and stops the fun.
||Posted - 05/07/2017 : 11:44:37 AM
We're just wrapping up a major kitchen renovation (refinishing wood floors starting tomorrow.) I feel your pain...
||Posted - 05/07/2017 : 01:06:01 AM
Thanks guys. Appreciate the comments.
Currently I am in a bit of a modeling holding pattern. I'm getting to pretty much remodel the kitchen unexpectedly. I had a dishwasher decide to wash the kitchen floor and some of my crawspace without my permission. Needless to say, that appliance is now homeless. So I'm currently dealing with lots of noise from fans and airscrubbers. Looks like a few more days before the cabinets can be replaced and new flooring installed. So I'm going to be a few days before I can provide any new updates.
||Posted - 05/07/2017 : 12:43:30 AM
It's time to give you a round of applause for your expert tutorials! How do you find time to build anything after typing all of these instructions? I find it difficult to keep up with you.
I tip my hat to you, Sir! Well written
||Posted - 05/07/2017 : 12:28:42 AM
The bridge is looking good already!
||Posted - 05/01/2017 : 11:31:57 PM
Kris those stringers and ties dead on color wise.
Thanks for showing the difference in the lighting sun light/room light.
||Posted - 05/01/2017 : 8:18:41 PM
Mount Ties to Stringers:
Let's get some ties down, and in the process discuss a couple of modeling technique items.
In the picture below I have started to mount the ties to the stringers. Note that I'm not using the drawing template, but I'm using other objects to space the ties, but the stripwood mounted to the glass plate as a guide to keep the ties 'even' across the stringers.
I have noted that the use of a Alvin drafting triangle has about the correct thickness as what is needed between the ties. One could also use a North West Shortline angle guide as a spacer. For more exact spacing, or wider spacing, one could use small rectangles of Strathmore board or styrene. I have also laminated a few business cards together to create a spacer of specific width.
The reason for the use of a spacer is to keep the ties evenly spaced to the eye. Exact dead on spacing is not required, but keep the tie deck visually appealing.
The use of a plastic spacer has the advantage of being stiff enough with sharp edges which can be used to scrap/wipe away any excess adhesive which may weep out from under the tie as it is mounted to the stringers. You can also quickly remove the adhesive from the plastic by wiping the plastic spacer with a damp cloth. This will allow you to keep your work free of unsightly glue globs. If you use a paper based spacer, you will need to replace the spacer every 20 ties or so as the corners will curl, losing the sharp edges to wipe away the excess glue and will tend to leave glue residue behind.
Another 'visual' trick I use is to place the first few ties at each end of the stringers freehand. These few ties are very important in keeping the ties at a 90 degree angle to the stringers, but just a tiny bit of off-set in the tie overhang will add a very subtle but 'worn' look to the bridge. It is important to keep the two endmost ties even however, and these are used to act as stops against the stripwood guide during the placement of the bulk of the ties. I usually do about 4 or 5 ties on each end of the bridge freehand to instill the 'worn' look.
Work from each end of the bridge, placing ties and rotate between the two different bridge ends until the ties meet just off center. Split the difference in space in the last tie or two to obtain the best visual effect.
1) Attach the two end stringers using a drafting triangle or square to keep the ties at 90 degrees. Make sure the tie overhang is equal on both sides of the outside stringers and the tie is flush with the stringers ends. Allow to dry.
2) With the stringer frames still spot glued to the deck template drawing, place 4 to 6 more ties on each bridge end using the template as a guide. Make sure to use the 'spacer' tool to keep all the ties at equal distance. (See next step for hint on using spacer tool.) Eyeball the tie overhang on the outside stringers. Use a drafting triangle or square to keep the ties at 90 degrees to the stringers. Place the ties under weight as the tie adhesive dries.
3) I place the tie spacing tool against a mounted tie, draw a light pencil mark with a sharp lead across each of the stringer tops using the spacer tool as a guide. I then remove the spacer tool. Use a toothpick with a small bit of glue on the end, and place a bit of glue on the outside edge of the pencil mark. (Outside edge is the side opposite of the mounted tie.) Hold the spacer tool against the mounted tie and then place the new tie to be mounted. After making sure the newly placed tie is placed correctly, remove the spacer tool and wipe away any excess glue which may have squeezed out from under the newly placed tie. Make sure to keep the tie under pressure when removing the spacing tool to avoid crooked ties. Place the tie under weight and repeat the process at the opposite bridge end until the ties are in place.
4) After about 6 ties are firmly mounted on each end of the bridge, remove the stringers from the template drawing. Place the bridge against the stripwood guide and continue to mount ties until all ties are mounted.
Ties mounted on Stringers. Note the two different types of spacing tools and how the bridge is against the stripwood guide. Weight blocks are also shown, as is a large triangle for keeping ties at 90 degrees.
Bridge Deck in Full Sunlight.
Bridge Deck - Room Lighting
Stringer Sides and Deck Center with Slightly Incorrect Tie Spacing.