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|T O P I C R E V I E W
||Posted - 05/05/2004 : 9:57:32 PM
Now comes the fun part. Trying to put all those
little pieces together so it resembles a car.
A lighted magnifier is a great help if you have
Weíll start with the interior and chassis while
the body dries. These are the pieces that will
be detailed and assembled for now. So grab a
small paint brush and letís get started.
I like to start with the wheels and tires.
Leaving them on the sprue makes this much
easier. For this set Iíll paint the spoke
wheels the same color as the body. I try to get
just a little color on the spokes and center
hub. Just lightly dab them with some paint.
After the wheels are painted Iíll paint the
tires Steam Power Black which will dull them
quite a bit. You could also Dulcoat them if
youíd prefer. When finished,lay aside to dry.
Next weíll do the seats and floor. Remove the 6
pieces that make up the seats and trim off any
flash. Then assemble the seats using the glue
of your choice. The back seat should be test
fit before gluing together. I always end up
doing a little sanding with an emery board to
get the pieces to fit togetherproperly. When
dry, Iíll glue them to the floor.
Since the floor cannot be seen on the finished
car, I donít paint it. You may prefer to do so
but donít paint the tops of the seat supports.
When the seats are installed Iíll paint them. I
chose dirt brown for these. Then Iíll install
the brake lever and gear shift and the interior
is finished. Set aside to dry. As you can see
in the photo, I use a modified tweezers to hold
the floor while assembling the seats and
Next weíll move onto the chassis. The one thing
I canít stress enough is take your time with
this part. There are a few parts which will be
assembled that will influence if all four tires
end up on the ground and not have one sticking
up in the air.(I hate that)
So cut the floorpan from the sprue and clean up
any flashing. Also remove the rear spring and
do the same.
I would suggest you use Super Glue gel for this
next step. Put a drop of glue into the middle
of the slot where the spring goes. Place the
spring in the slot making sure it is centered.
Let dry. Now comes the tricky part. Place
another drop of glue in each end of the slot and
clamp down the spring. I use a couple of
tweezers for this. Let dry.
Next, cut the rear end housing from the sprue and test fit it.
You want to make sure the ends of the spring do
not interfere with the fitting of the wheels.
You will need to trim the spring on each end
about 1/16Ē. When you are satisfied with the
fit, making sure the rear end is level, even
side to side and centered in the wheelwell glue
in and let dry.
Next weíll do the same with the front spring/axle.
Place a drop of glue in the center of the slot
and glue into place. This also needs to be
centered side to side and level with the rear
axle. Take your time.
Next, glue on the front steering arm and the
muffler. The chassis is now complete except for
the wheels/tires which I usually install last.
Your chassis should look like this.
Now we can install the floor section onto the
chassis. There are two locating areaís on the
floor which make assembly easy. Make sure the
rear seat area is even side to side between the
rear fenders and front to back while gluing.
Set aside for now.
Frustration is our next stepÖwindow glass. Take
a deep breath because it has to be done. Before
you grab the glass material, break out your
cotton gloves. Lotís of cutting and handling
which equals finger prints. Big noticeable
finger prints! Also, a nail scissors will make
this somewhat easier.
What I usually do is just eyeball the size
window needed and cut a piece of material
out of the sheet. There will be quite a bit of
trimming, so just make sure the piece is
bigger than the window opening. Fit and cut and
fit and cut is the procedure. There are
recesses in the back and side body panels where
the windows fit into so just cut until your
satisfied with the fit and the glass lays flat.
(I like to keep one or both front windows half
way open. You can also keep both fully open so
you donít have to cut the glass for them. Also,
the front and back side pieces are two separate
windows, not one long piece to cover both)
When the glass fits good and lays flat, add a
dab of liquid glue to one corner. Make sure
the glue brush is not filled with glue. Wipe
some excess off or there is a good chance the
glue will run down the body taking the paint
along with it. Also, do not push down on the
glass after gluing. It will push the glue
out and lift any paint it comes in contact with
off. Just let it flow (you will see it seep
under the glass) and let dry. Try not to touch
the glass with the brush or it might move. Just
touch the body near the glass.
I would suggest you let everything bond for the
next hour or so. Next comes the hard part.
How you did during Part 1 now comes into play.
If you took your time and test fit the parts
properly this should not be that difficult. It
will still be frustrating, especially if you
have fat fingers like me, but if you take your
time itíll come together.
I use Testors in a tube cement for this. Youíll
also need a toothpick or a small pin to apply
the glue with.
Before you begin, scrape any paint off of the
glue lines. This will insure proper adhesion.
Just use the edge of a razor blade and only
scrape the glue surfaces. When that is done,
grab one side panel and the top. Apply a small
dab of cement on the side panel in the bottom of
the V groove towards the back. Also put a dab
near the front and in the middle and place
the top into position. Apply light pressure and
make sure the roof and side is aligned. Also
make sure the top is straight. Hold together
for a few minutes until the top stays in place.
Then take the toothpick and apply more glue to
the seams from the inside. Let dry.
Do the same with the other side panel. Now set
aside to dry.
Now you can assemble the steering column and
wheel and glue into place on the dash. I
prefer not to paint these two items and just
keep them black. Scrape any paint from the
inside of the window frame and cut and fit the
window piece. Try and keep the glass as narrow
as possible as the side panels also get glued
to this surface. Secure with the liquid glue.
Next place the cowl/windshield in place to
check the fit. Glue into place and adjust the
fit of the side panels. This will hold the side
panels and top secure. Let dry overnight.
The next piece is the hardest one to fit. The
back panel will probably need some fine tuning
to get it to fit right. Iíll use an emery board
to lightly sand where needed. (usually near the
top where the two sides join) When you are
satisfied with the fit, glue into place. (on
this one the body fell onto a piece of
cardstock where I had placed a blob of glue.
Hopefully, youíll be luckier than I
was) Let dry. Next I place on the front sun
shield after some sanding and glue
into place. Let dry overnight.
The top looks this way because I had to sand
the glue off.
Instead of repainting the roof black again, I
put on a coat of blue to match the rest of the
body. This is also a good time to touch up any
flaws that occurred to the paint during
assembly. I also weathered the body with some
homemade rust, chalk and alcohol. (I wasnít
planning on it but the glue I couldnít get off
had to be covered up)
Next, check the fit of the body to the floorpan
and make any adjustments. If you plan on
placing a driver and/or passenger in, now is
the time. Then glue the body on and let dry.
Next you can fit the hood assembly and glue
into place. When dry I will weather the
The next step is to assemble the wheels/tires
onto the chassis. First glue the brake drums to
the back of the wheels making sure they are
centered. When dry I place the back wheels on
first. Super glue is perfect for this. Just
make sure the wheel is straight up and down and
side to side before the glue dries.
Now you can put the front tires in place. (I
like to have the front tires turned instead of
being straight, especially if the vehicle is
parked) The choice is yours. Glue each wheel
into place and let dry for awhile. (about Ĺ hr)
Then place the car on a flat surface to check
if all four tires sit on the ground. (if not,
place enough weight on top of the vehicle until
they are) Make sure they are still straight up
and down and let the glue dry. Weather as you
Now you can add the bumpers, headlights and
spare tire. Paint and weather as you wish and
you should have a finished vehicle ready for
There are many ways to build Ė paint Ė weather these kits. This just happens to be how I do it.
Hope you can put some of it to use.
|15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
||Posted - 12/01/2018 : 8:39:34 PM
I can agree with what you think, but if you would do it like you said the rear end would be way too high. Remember, a full size car would have enough weight to compress the rear leaf. These don't.
I like to build my vehicles with no rake, just even front to back.
Just my thoughts...
||Posted - 12/01/2018 : 4:07:38 PM
Ken, I know this is a very old thread but I just found it (just became a member of this site) and it's going to be very helpful as I have a number of these kits to build. Let me start off by saying thanks for doing this tutorial, like I said, it's going to be very helpful.
One thing I did notice was the part about the rear leaf spring. On these cars the spring mounted to a perch on the frame just at the center of the spring usually by two U bolts that went over the bottom of the spring in the center with the ends going through four holes in the perch and held with nuts on top of the perch.
As a result I think the ends of the spring should not fit flush with the end of the spring slot, but should stand proud of the underside of the floor pan and connect to the ends of the wishbone.
In the last picture of your car, it looks as the rear is a little low, like the car is loaded heavily in the rear. It looks to me as if the is a difference in the gaps between the fenders and the tires from the front to the rear.
Now you know much more about building these cars then I do so I might be completely out to lunch here, but I thought I'd like share my opinion and if I'm right it would make installing the rear spring much simpler I think.
||Posted - 02/21/2006 : 4:32:50 PM
Your right about the instructions Cletus, but after a few kits you won't need them anyways. Lots of the same parts are used for various kits and some need modification before they fit right for different vehicles. I'm looking forward to building about 30 vehicles for me diorama after the buildings are done. Have not built one in awhile.
But where would we be without these great kits? One can never have enough Jordans!
||Posted - 02/20/2006 : 10:32:29 PM
Can we ever see or have enouhg Jordan vehicles? Such little jewels. If it were not for Jordan vehicles, my 1920s era layout would have been an 1890's version.
Now I need to do another one with the hood open.
Great work guys!
||Posted - 02/20/2006 : 8:19:36 PM
This tutorial was great. I have had success after trying a couple models. One of the biggest diffculties I see is with the lack of good pictures with the Jordan models. In many cases, it is difficult to determine where to glue together certain parts based on the included pictures. In some cases this is most critical for parts to fit properly. One example would be the change Ken added about gluing the rear spring. While you would pick up on that as you put the model together, it is still great to know prior to. But then again, it isn't the first time instructions ere lacking.
Thanks Ken for filling the gaps in.
||Posted - 06/01/2004 : 06:25:44 AM
Great job, Ken.
I don't think I have ever seen this kit before. Is it still available?
||Posted - 05/31/2004 : 10:41:35 PM
I wanted a couple of vehicles for Red Bird Gas so I tried something a little different. The 1920 Center Door Sedan is one of a few Jordan kits that come with an engine, so I thought I'd try to make an open hood.
I'll place a mechanic working on it along with some of his tools when it's finished.
||Posted - 05/29/2004 : 9:20:03 PM
Great lookiing model. Thanks for the paint tip.
||Posted - 05/28/2004 : 10:49:17 PM
Very nice Jesper Very good fit on the body panels.
I'll be trying the new paint for plastic from Krylon. No need for primer and it chemically bonds to the plastic producing a smooth finish.
At least thats what they say...
||Posted - 05/28/2004 : 11:33:51 AM
Great looking car! I have tried the Krylon also and wasn't totally happy with the result, though it was more than tolerable. Thanks for the tip on the primer at Pep Boys!
||Posted - 05/28/2004 : 08:17:08 AM
That looks great, Jesper. What vehicle is next?
||Posted - 05/28/2004 : 07:18:57 AM
Very nice. Looks like this can easily be a foreground car. Good job.
||Posted - 05/27/2004 : 11:22:25 PM
Finally, this one I'm happy with. Turned out as good as I could have hoped. I think you can get hooked on building these tiny cars :)
||Posted - 05/23/2004 : 10:40:55 PM
A better paint job
Today after I finished the first Jordan car, I decided to try something different for painting the next one. So I went to Pep Boys and bought a can of automotive gray primer and a can of light blue. Wow, except for a limited choice of colors, it's so much easier to use that kind of spray paint instead of Testors. The primer dries in 1/2 hour, then it's ready for paint. I tried not to spray too thick, but even with a light coat, it almost covers completely, 1/4 - 1/2 hour later you can give the second light coat. It took me about 1 hour to paint this car, from the first primer until the second coat was dry. But actual time spend was probably more like 5 minutes, with no airbrush cleaning, no paint mixing, no paint bottle cleaning or anything.
I know a lot of you have probably already tried automotive spray paint (don't know if that is what it is actually called, the brand name is "Plastic-Kote" at Pep Boys), and I had tried spray paint before (Krylon from Home Depot) with not too great a result, but this time it just went on smooth and perfect.
Wonder how many cars I can paint from that one can?, enough to fill an entire layout :)
For some reason the colors are all wrong, the background was kind of red-ish, and the colorcast in Photoshop turned it gray instead of white.
||Posted - 05/23/2004 : 12:42:23 AM
Those models don't look that bad. My first kit was a total disaster and it ended up in the weeds as a junker.
The gas and radiator caps are on the left hand sprue in your pic. They gave you 4 for a very good reason.
It looks like the paint was too thick when you applied it. Was wondering if you used Ceramcoat. If you did it needs to be really thin. A little rust/weathering and it'll look fine.
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