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T O P I C    R E V I E W
railman28 Posted - 06/12/2012 : 02:00:55 AM
Most of this spring I've spent my hobby time on procurement and planning. My layout is about 23 years old and needs some love. It needs its scenery refreshed, a good cleaning, buildings repaired and track maintenance. All of which has been delayed by the knowledge that I wanted to change a few things to ease maintenance, improve running, improve presentation and be more correct for my time period. The biggest change to make the layout correct for my time period will be to replace all turnouts to stub points. But here is what my current track plan kinda looks like;


The layout layout currently doesn't have any Three way switches on it. This drawing was a planning sketch that most accurately shows my original layout.
This is what I hope it will become;

As you can see the most obvious change is the orientation of the turntable roundhouse. But also the passing track at Beaver Hill has been moved so that the south turnout is reachable for maintenance. The same reasoning lead to the log dump entry being moved.
This next view won't impress any of the fine craftsman here but it show me testing these drawing on the layout to see if they would actually work. It appears that they will;



The next step is to see exactly how much room my new turntable will take. So I will now take time to build it and escape the mud bog that planning can become. I'm using Freshwater Models' Sellers Turntable kit. Here's a progress shot;


As this kit is no longer made and Dave and Craig have already ran detailed building treads on this kit (which I have found very helpful) I'll just share progress shots here and then.
Any and all comments are welcomed.
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
railman28 Posted - 09/22/2018 : 01:32:06 AM
Have I mentioned that this is the first time that I have gotten this far on scratch building a steam engine? Prior to this the closest I've done is to re-motor and add a new boiler to an existing mechanism. So in addition to the skills needed to learn 3d printing I've have to learn some machine assembly skills. So I continued to layout the cylinders on the FUD prototype. here i shot of the clearances around the cylinders;


It looks good. There is enough room between the driver and the crosshead. When I checked the motion of the crossheads I discovered that I had to move the yoke back 3". I checked the needed aliment to the drawing I found that it agreed with the drawing. I also took a fresh look at the Main Rods and found them lacking so I adjusted their design and sent it off Shapeways for printing. Moving the yoke back 3" presented it own problems. I have provided a cross-member on the frame to attach the yoke to and I have drill two hole to attach the yoke. The FUD isn't strong enough to support new holes 3" from the old ones. I know this because I tried to drill them and the FUD just chipped out into the old hole. This Isn't a big problem as the FUD prototypes have just about served their purpose. I just need them to hold the brass pieces of the valve gear in place while I solder them together. A task they can't do with these mounting holds in the wrong place. Here you see my solution;


In the above photo you will notice that all the drivers have been removed from the FUD frame and the brass yoke is being held in place by a styrene spacer to get that 3 more inches and a clamp. The clamp was modified to do just this one thing. I learned this from blacksmiths who would make a new thong for a new job. A shop would end up with quite a collection of custom thong in just a few years, A real challenge for anybody wanting to make a realistic model of a blacksmith shop but I get off of the track here. So now I have to modify, actually adjust, the brass yokes. At the top of the photo you can see the FUD prototype of the yoke. Notice that the right vertical arm is shorter than the left's. The right one is the right size and the brass yokes will have to be adjusted to this new damnation. Then I get to solder these pieces together. I can barely solder wires. Fortunately the crosshead guild is just a heavy bar shaped wire. I can do this!
Now let me tell you about my BIG Foul up
. It was time to add the main gear to the axle of the 2nd set of drivers. Let me remind you that this is the first time that I have worked with these English drives and axles. So I removed one of the driver disks and press fit gear onto the axle and then put the assemblies into my wheel press. A NWSL press designed for American and Asian 1/8 and 3mm axles. And, this dummy left the driver disk on instead of removing it and putting the nut back on the axle but not tightening it all the way down as you need the broad target of the nut for the press to press against and I damaged the driver disk. And this is the 2nd set, the blind set. So I had to set in motion a series of Emails and computer work. First I order a replacement driver from Scale-link in England and then I emailed my friend Don Ball who blinds(removes the flanges) my drivers for me to see if he was available. I am grateful that he agreed to do another one for me. I returned to the bench and continued to press the gear into place and to assemble the gearbox. To help break in the gearbox (and yes i remembered to oil it first) I used one of my new tools (no, not the laser) my powered pin vise. Yes powered, it has a single AA battery and turns nice and slowly so;



It started out shift but about twenty minute later it's has smoothed out and freed up.

and now you're all up to date.

Bob
railman28 Posted - 09/14/2018 : 3:54:37 PM
There is some progress on the moguls to report.
I've added the nuts to the pins and also added the main rods. Like so;


you can see that the front driver doesn't have a nut on the pin. that is because there doesn't appear to be enough room for one. It appears it would conflict with the crosshead. The nut isn't really needed here as the rods are held adequately by the nuts on the other pins. Since a nut is not in use a smaller clearance hole in the siderod is required for this first driver. On the finished model the pins on the first and third driver will be trimmed off. All the parts are lining up correctly but the drive rod might be a hair too short. This and other planning with the cylinders keeps me from moving the drivers to the final model.
Two Other things.
First, I broke a pin, so I ordered several replacements from Scale-Link over from England and got the usual great service. But sadly he included a short note stating among other things that he wants to retire(he's 15 years overdue on that) (and, I can't really blame him for that!) and that his shop will soon be up for sell and if no buyer steps up, closed. So If you are contemplating any projects that you might need drivers and pins for I suggest you "crack on" and get an order in to him. He is just a retailer, the maker of the stuff is in the middle of a reorganization of his business due to moving to new quarters. Hopefully that will turn out fine.
2nd Have any of you had prostrate surgery? Not to worry now. The doctor says it's very early in it's development (I suspect he tells everybody that!) and won't even use the "C" word. He calls it "abnormal cells".
Anyway I've never gone "under the Knife" before so if any of you feel like sharing your experiences I would like to here them. Feel free to PM me.

Bob
railman28 Posted - 09/10/2018 : 7:10:04 PM
Thank you, Mike. It's appreciated.
Michael Hohn Posted - 09/06/2018 : 2:43:31 PM
Very nice, Bob. I’m sure you deserve a lot of credit also.

Mike
railman28 Posted - 09/06/2018 : 1:59:03 PM
Will this was a test I was dreading.
Were the tire hits the road. Or. when the static models become working miniatures. I started fitting the drive rods. Drilling them out to just except the the driver pins and checking clearances. As always I started with the FUD prototypes. I must say I'm pleased with the results. Here the model assembled;



Here's a shot of the thickest part of the side rod clearing the cross guide yoke;


And the drive rods at their highest point showing the clearance there



I'm rather pleased with these results but I must say that they are a tribute to the builders that came before me and established the standards that I just copied.
railman28 Posted - 09/01/2018 : 8:48:40 PM
Thanks for the support guys, I'm very gratified that others are enjoying/benefiting from this journal.

A little more on scaling.
This is my test pattern, the four squares representing four structure walls.

note the single line to the left.


Yesterday I thought that once I opened the file in RDWORKS it became a Group. Scaling this group was easier with the line to the left being a known length. Today while exploring some more I found the "wall"s could be selected out and scaled indivisibly. So there is no long a need for the line at the left. Using Cadrail for drawing anything but track plans has never been what I would say easy. In the file transfer process the file is imported in at about 1/10th its drawn size. I believe I'm doing something wrong there. That's tonight project.
deemery Posted - 09/01/2018 : 5:18:03 PM
Your lessons learned, particularly the things that don't work out, are fascinating to read! Please keep them coming.

dave
masonamerican Posted - 09/01/2018 : 5:07:18 PM
Way to go Bob! It has liftoff

Lot of testing to get it right though.

Håkan
Carl B Posted - 09/01/2018 : 11:34:20 AM
Wow, you started working with that laser unit pretty quick....
railman28 Posted - 09/01/2018 : 12:12:24 AM
Mike, that is so true. I got around the scaling issue by including a scale with the drawing. It's a work around but it does work. These came out to exact size.


These are 3/16 Balsa which to my surprise cuts as easily as cardstock. I did these speed test. from the front side;

All cuts were made at 30% power and from the left the speed were 200 (mms), 100, 75,50(which was also used to cut the squares out),25 and then 10. Here the backside of the two pieces;


As you can see 75 mms was enough to go through both materials.
Interesting stuff? Hay at least some of you will sleep better now.
Michael Hohn Posted - 08/31/2018 : 9:30:26 PM
Bob,

Scale isn’t always obvious. It seems intuitive until you discover your intuition and the software designer’s are not the same.

Anything to be done about the venting?

Mike
railman28 Posted - 08/31/2018 : 8:32:59 PM
Galen, Mike, Thank you for your kind word. they are so appreciated.
I did some first cuts with the laser.


Some of the things learned so far;


  • once you get it calibrated, don't touch it again.
  • the venting system isn't strong enough
  • scaling is a problem.


I made a drawing of the four cubes and a ring the cubes were 35mm square. I drew the file with cadrail and exported in DXF. I opened in RDworks and all 4 cubes and the ring were less than 3.5mm. So there is a lot of learning to do.
Michael Hohn Posted - 08/31/2018 : 6:32:13 PM
Bob,

You’re building a truly beautiful model. It looks so much better in brass.

Mike
ocalicreek Posted - 08/31/2018 : 3:49:34 PM
Beautiful brass and a burst of light! Good luck with the laser test...make something fun.

Galen
railman28 Posted - 08/31/2018 : 3:01:22 PM
A little progress on the moguls. The crosshead yoke in brass came in;


I think it looks way better than the Metallic Plastic version.

and here with the boiler and running boards in place;



Now comes the slow and careful assembly of the parts. I'll first assemble the FUD prints. That way I can check all the clearances, find out what assembly process works and know what to expect in the brass pieces.

I also hop to test fire the laser today.

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